Is your country experiencing severe drought? Do you need some record breaking rainfall? All you need to do is invite Joey and I to come study your swallows and problem solved! We should have known when we were planning this experiment in Israel- we did pack our rain coats, but I should have brought wellies, rain pants, and an umbrella as well.
A little back story: In the spring of 2013 Joey and I ran a large experiment together in the Czech Republic. In the middle of this experiment, there were record rains. Prague flooded, the towns near us and our field sites flooded, a state of emergency was declared, people put up sand bags, and most of the nestlings in our experiment died (see story here). It rained for 10 days straight without letting up. Joey and I then go home in July to run a large experiment in good old dry Colorado. Many of you will recall that the end of this experiment was cut short by bazaar and record breaking rain falls in Boulder. It was called the 1000 year flood, a rare event to put in the record books. We are now in Israel and it has rained for a week straight. People comment that this is the wettest winter they can remember. It is flooding in the south as all the water runs down the mountains into the desert. Lighting, which is rare here, is an almost daily occurrence. A few days ago we woke up to a surprise snow fall, something that has not happened in Ami'ad since 1992. The children were ecstatic and played in the snow for a few hours until the rain melted it all. They kept asking us if we wanted to play in the snow with them- we did not.
A little back story: In the spring of 2013 Joey and I ran a large experiment together in the Czech Republic. In the middle of this experiment, there were record rains. Prague flooded, the towns near us and our field sites flooded, a state of emergency was declared, people put up sand bags, and most of the nestlings in our experiment died (see story here). It rained for 10 days straight without letting up. Joey and I then go home in July to run a large experiment in good old dry Colorado. Many of you will recall that the end of this experiment was cut short by bazaar and record breaking rain falls in Boulder. It was called the 1000 year flood, a rare event to put in the record books. We are now in Israel and it has rained for a week straight. People comment that this is the wettest winter they can remember. It is flooding in the south as all the water runs down the mountains into the desert. Lighting, which is rare here, is an almost daily occurrence. A few days ago we woke up to a surprise snow fall, something that has not happened in Ami'ad since 1992. The children were ecstatic and played in the snow for a few hours until the rain melted it all. They kept asking us if we wanted to play in the snow with them- we did not.
 This is Joey's grumpy rain face |  The first time it has snowed in Ami'ad since 1992. |
The swallows are not as hard hit by the weather as they were in the Czech Republic, but the rain and cold has delayed their breeding for several weeks compared to normal years. We planned our trip perfectly for a normal year with some wiggle room, but not this much wiggle room. We are hoping, fingers crossed (pretty please), that there will be enough nestlings to train our field assistants before we leave the country. With luck we might just squeak by. Most of the swallows look rather damp and chilled and are refusing to lay eggs. They just sit by their nests and watch it rain. I think they are as grumpy about it as we are.
Given all the rain, and lack of field work- can't catch swallows in the rain, and they aren't laying any eggs- Yoni advised us to head south. So south we went to one of the jewels of Israel, Ein Gedi. Ein Gedi is an oasis in the Judean desert near the shore of the dead sea. It has a long history (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ein_Gedi), but currently it is a natural reserve, the highlights of which is two wadis, or canyons, with freshwater springs that form streams and deep pools. It has incredible views and is home to some amazing wildlife.
Joey and I drove south and spent the night at a camp ground on the cliffs above the dead sea. This camp ground was quite different from camp grounds in the US. We were planning to set up a tent we had borrowed from Yoni, but were convinced to stay in a Bedouin style tent/hut because of the wind. This "tent" included electricity, lights, a space heater, mattresses, and our own picnic table. Our stay also came with a complimentary breakfast. This was certainly glamping. The view over the dead sea at sunrise was amazing. Check out Joey's attempt at a time lapse dead sea sunrise video.
Given all the rain, and lack of field work- can't catch swallows in the rain, and they aren't laying any eggs- Yoni advised us to head south. So south we went to one of the jewels of Israel, Ein Gedi. Ein Gedi is an oasis in the Judean desert near the shore of the dead sea. It has a long history (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ein_Gedi), but currently it is a natural reserve, the highlights of which is two wadis, or canyons, with freshwater springs that form streams and deep pools. It has incredible views and is home to some amazing wildlife.
Joey and I drove south and spent the night at a camp ground on the cliffs above the dead sea. This camp ground was quite different from camp grounds in the US. We were planning to set up a tent we had borrowed from Yoni, but were convinced to stay in a Bedouin style tent/hut because of the wind. This "tent" included electricity, lights, a space heater, mattresses, and our own picnic table. Our stay also came with a complimentary breakfast. This was certainly glamping. The view over the dead sea at sunrise was amazing. Check out Joey's attempt at a time lapse dead sea sunrise video.
We spent most of the following day hiking up Aragot Wadi in the Ein Gedi Reserve. We had a picnic lunch at a hidden waterfall and swam in the pools at the top of the canyon. It was finally hot enough to wear chacos! Though we were the only ones... all of the Israelis were still wearing fleece and hiking through the streams in boots. We were really looking forward to maybe seeing a hyrax and an ibex on our hike since the reserve is a research area for them. We did not have to look hard since we saw both of them before we had actually gotten out of the car. They like to hang out near the parking lot apparently, but we were still excited.
Ein gedi is also home to ancient settlements and archeologists have uncovered the ruins of a synagogue built in the 3rd and 4th century CE. Under layers of soil they found an incredible mosaic on the synagogue floor. It is very intricate and really amazing that it has survived this intact for so long. One of the inscriptions in the mosaic puts a curse on all those who reveal valuable information and secrets to the gentiles.
 Mosaic on the floor of the ancient synagogue |  Remains of synagogue and surrounding buildings |
After our hike, we were determined to take a dip in the Dead Sea. If you discuss the Dead Sea with the Israelis, at least all of the ones that we have met, they will tell you that it is disgusting and not to swim in it. We will have to disagree, it is sort of disgusting, but you should totally swim in it! The dead sea is an absolutely beautiful shade of blue, several shades of blue actually, it is very clear and you can see very deep. It is also huge, much larger than either of us had imagined. The rocks at the shoreline are coated in salt crystals (which are sharp if you are barefoot). The feeling of floating in the Dead Sea is like nothing else. It is feels as if you have 3 pool noodles under you, if you are on your back floating it is almost impossible to put your legs under water. I don't think you could dive under if you wanted to. In the video that I have posted it looks like Joey is bouncing up and down off the bottom, but the water is actually well over her head. The water is very salty (duh) and feels like a light weight mineral oil on your skin and between your fingers. Interesting fact: the dead sea is 1,400 feet below sea level! There is nothing living, hence the name, and when the water dries on your skin it leaves behind a layer of powdery crystals (if you are wondering- they do not taste good, I tried it). We are not sure about the toted health benefits of the dip in the Dead Sea, apparently the Russians swear by it, but we can report that it is fun!
After a wonderful day in the desert we turned around and reluctantly drove back to the cold and rainy north.
After a wonderful day in the desert we turned around and reluctantly drove back to the cold and rainy north.
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