This morning Mamdouh, Liz, and I went nest searching in the helpful fish farmer’s village. He took us to the building where he had caught the bucket swallows (which I am happy to report are back at their nests taking care of their nestlings and are doing just fine) and we looked at a few more places, including a small barn filled with ducks, and a place where they mill rice, where we hope to catch tomorrow night. There were so many barn swallows in this village; the sky was filled with them. This place clearly fit the requirements: old, muddy, and crowded with animals and people. Barn swallow heaven. In the narrow streets I saw many donkey and horse carts hauling all sorts of heavy loads through the rutted streets and I realized once again just how utterly spoiled Pilot is. Mamdouh told us that the women walking down the streets with brightly colored and intricately patterned clothes were Bedouins that were camping near by with their herds. Tuesday is market day in this village and after nest hunting we were invited to walk through the market, which Liz and I thoroughly enjoyed. It was filled with stalls selling live fish, fresh meat, spices, grains, vegetables, and fruit, most of which is grown near by on small farms. Everything was so colorful and the market was alive with people buying their weekly groceries and sellers yelling out prices. Many tourists come to Egypt and see the pyramids and take a cruse on the Nile, they see the Valley of the Kings, the tombs and temples, Luxor and Aswan. While all of these things are fascinating and I am sure, amazing and fun to see. This is ancient Egypt. The modern Egypt can be found in places like this village, in this market, in Tahrir square. This is the Egypt that very few tourists see, but I am very glad that we found it.